Saturday, September 30, 2006

Freiburg, Germany - August 2, 2006

Welcoming to the charming city of Freiburg - located in the furthest Southwestern corner of Germany, bordering on France and Switzerland. The first day I arrived, following a four-or-five hour train ride across southern Germany, was rainy and cold - a perfect day to do nothing after the previous 5 of continuous exploration and beer-guzzling. Ivo was happy to accomodate, thankfully, and allowed me to take up space on his back porch watching the rain fall and his girlfriend's rabbit hop around the yard. After some vegetarian soup and apple struddel - my first in Germany - we shot some pool with friends before calling it an early night. The next day we went to Zurich and Basel, so I didn't actually get to explore Freiburg itself until my 3rd and final day in the city! Despite the short amount of time, I couldn't help but love it, the perfect size, character and demographic - read on!


Ivo's home town is a "university city" - a common phenomenon in Europe wherein a city's primary focus is the university and is populated through-and-through by students. Sounds like a great place to live! When we were there it was a bit quiet - being mid-summer and the majority of students off doing whatever students do in the summer.



The University of Freiburg is smack dab in the middle of the city - not removed on some enclosed "campus" like most Canadian universties. Martin Heidegger was one of the more prominent philosohpers to have made Freiburg his home, and the famous phenomenoligist Edmund Husserl also taught here. Its quite interesting to think of such a "small" place to be home to such luminaries and to have played such a large role in the philosophical community while remaining outside of the major centres of Paris or Berlin - or even Frankfurt where the famous school of Benjamin, Adorno and Horkheimer started, only a few hours north of Freiburg.


The classic Germanic tower-gates that dominate the cityscapes of southern Germany. They're always so photogenic, its hard to resist.


A streetcar makes its way along the main drag of Freiburg with the Black Forest (the same forest of Hansel & Grettal fame, as well as the dessert) in the background. Freiburg was probably the cutest city I visited in Germany.


Even the manhole covers are photogenic. This one bears the city crest.



Another street deadending against the forest which surrounds the city on three-sides.


Anyone going to Landwasser?


This may seem like just another picture of a church - and it is - but one of these gargoyles is in a somewhat unnatural position - mooning the bishop's house across the street. Supposedly, if I recall the story Ivo recounted to me, the builders were unhappy with whatever arrangement they had with the bishop (financially or otherwise) and so decided to make this subtle addition to the church.


Like the great towers, the beautiful gothic architecture is hard to pass up. Here you can see the buttresses which hold up the walls of the church's vaulted ceiling - an effect that gives a feeling of incredible space and height in the inside of the church.


The town hall's bay window (seen differently below).



A german town hall across from the church. The colour schemes of Freiburg seem similar to that of Basel with their emphasis on reds, blues, and gold. This wasn't common outside of this small corner of the world.


The public market on the grounds outside the church. The bishop's house (referenced above) is/was the yellowish / peach coloured one I think.


Hmmm.... fresh berries for sale.


Mmmm cakes. I agree with their sentiments of eating many cakes - that is true.


A Freiburg oddity is that almost all the streets come with a "ditch" or "trench" of some kind that carries water somewhere or other. I don't think these simply function as storm drains because they were always full. They could be a remnant of medieval practice of having sewer drainage in the streets. Nowadays there is a legend that if you step into the water in any of these "streams" it will be your destiny to marry a resident of Freiburg. I was sure to check out the relative quality of the residents before deciding to avoid the water :).




Even the street signs beg to be photographed.


Weird dude on horse mimicked by odd dude on bicycle. To be honest I'm not sure why I photographed this - but the symmetry seems interesting now in retrospect.


Not a photograph of something in particular but I like how it shows regular objects in their beauty of daily-ness.


The Engert siblings - Ivo and sister Sylvia digest lunch on the university grounds. Sylvia and I had falafel, I don't think she was a fan :( Mine was great though, even better since Sylvia bought it for me! How's that for sweetness? Ivo and his family really went all out for me in the few days I spent with him in Freiburg and Switzerland, lending us their car, inviting me for breakfast and buying me lunch. Putting aside their attempt to off me by watermelon, I want to again express my gratitude. Having friends welcome you into their homes when you travel really makes the difference and Freiburg will always have a special place in my heart!



Inside the church mentioned above. A perfect day for illuminating stained glass windows.


The sense of space and height effect of Gothic architecture - thanks to the flying buttresses on the outside. This church - according to Ivo - housed an Archbishop at one time or another, denoting the importance of Freiburg historically.


Candles burn a finite prayer in our absence. Seems like a good deal to me. For a few coins you can buy someone/something to pray for you. Just need to invent a candle that can last for a few weeks/years instead of hours.



One of the things I loved in Europe was the great doors. Even regular houses seem to have some great doormanship. I have no idea where this door leads or of what building its a part of but it was photo-worthy.


A quaint little shopping district.


A well-manicured street "lantern".


Another cool door.


This "lantern" is having a bad hair day. Maybe its just feeling freaked out.


The rooftops of Freiburg. Already it was time to leave - in retrospect I wish I could have stayed longer, although poor Ivo probably enjoyed having his bed back! Nevertheless, as much I wanted to explore more and visit the cities of western Germany such as Frankfurt, Prague beckoned. But that's a story for another time - specifically when I get off my lazy @$$ and write it for you!


Friday, September 29, 2006

Basel, Switzerland - August 1, 2006

(I've switched to an easier method of blogging in order to get some of the backlog of pictures I have from Europe posted. One disadvantage is that landscape photos may be slightly offset due to their size - clicking on them will reveal the whole photo. An example of what I mean is the photo below - in its full size - contains the Swiss flag with which we can only catch a glimpse of now. Most of the other photos are not altered incredibly by the cropping. The advantage is there will no longer be distortion and graininess from viewing poorly-shrunk photos).


Welcome to Basel!


The beautiful old-town of Basel, Switzerland alongside the Rhine. Nietzsche was made the chair of philosophy in Basel at the ripe-old-age of 24. Think I've somewhat fallen behind.


Basel's streets are full of brightly-coloured oddities such as this dragon. I have no idea what function it serves - if any. It made strolling around this town much more personable than Zurich.


Another personable aspect of Basel was its collection of different doors - most with an inscription of the age of the house to which it barred entry.


Another one of Basel's figurines. Perhap's a horseless Don Quixote? Submit your best guesses.


Living and Dying. I've already proven I can't resist these old churches - I especially like this photograph. The vibrancy of the green seems to scream "life" against the rust-colour of the church. And rust is just another form of decay, isn't it?


The catholic Munster dwarfes a relaxing resident.


The exoskeleton like spires of the Munster are particularly interesting.


A boat crosses the Rhine by way of cable - which prevents the unpowered craft from slipping downstream.


Even the front of the church is adorned with odd figurines - including another Don Quixote-like character lancing some demonic doggy. Odd town - but interesting nonetheless.


In Switzerland you never have to wonder what time it is.


The lovely red of the rathaus - city hall - tower on the town square. The addition of another fable character helps gives this town a fairy-tale feel.


The setting sun cuts a decisive line across the gloriously vibrant rathaus.


A close-up - including the leaning, solid gold spire that adorns the rooftop. Only in a country of wealth can that much gold be just sitting on top of a roof and be considered safe.


Modern and Gothic Architecture compliment each-other.


Ivo ham's it up for the camera.


The gargoyles await the setting of the sun.


Another demon-spawn prepares to leap to life as dusk sets in.


The German Amigos - Michael & Ivo - both of whom I met in Mexico City and thought I'd never see again.


This is as tall as I can get!
A great memory. Three people going on wildy different paths in three different countries and yet meeting together for one evening, maybe the last time.


Speed. The autobahn at night. We return to Freiburg.