Thursday, November 30, 2006

Milan, Italy - August 12, 2006

Milan - Milano if you think of Alyssa - the fashion capital of Italy and perhaps the world, which translates into pretty much nothing if you don't give a wooden nickel about clothes (always wanted to use that expression, now I feel as old as Mr. Burns - ex-cellent). Milan was never really on the tour map and likely would have stayed off it had I not met Jin & Jay in Verona. As it was, I had some time on my hands as I couldn't arrive in Paris as early as I had hoped so I could take a more leisurely path and Milan offered a free place to stay. As for "attractions", well, the city didn't have the treasure trove I was used to from my time spent in the rest of Italy (and Germany for that matter). Whereas Venice, Verona and Florence maintained an almost completely pre-modern look Milan is a big (and ugly) modern city full of unseemly skyscrapers, office buildings, and burgeoning suburbs. And yet, Milan deserves a special place in my memory for my time with those great Koreans of Italy and for sporting the most fantastic cathedral in Europe. Read on Macduff, read on.

I arrived in Milan the evening of the 11th. The train ride north from Florence was fun as I met a Pisano/a (from Pisa - I think) named Giada. She couldn't speak English nor could I speak Italian so we managed to make half-sense in Spanish. This was about the limit of the usefulness that Spanish served me on my European vacation that for whatever reason excluded the only Spanish-speaking country: Portugal. Giada and I parted ways on the steps of the Milan train station as I tried, in vain, to get in contact with Jin who had given me his phone number in Verona. As I was to find out later the poor Koreans had imbibed one too many beers (knowing Soon Tae that could have meant precisely one) and had passed out for the night. Much to my aggravation, my free night in Milan was to be spent at a pricey hostel on the outskirts.

Getting to the hostel involved taking the subway which luckily had a stop right in the train station. As any seasoned traveller knows, the subway is one's best friend. Unlike buses which are always difficult to learn and navigate, subways are universal. Stops are always easily marked so you know where you are and the maps clearly show where you're going. Milan was no-different - except for one thing - it screamed. Maybe it was due to the heat and humidity that caused all the windows to be down or the design of the tunnels or a lack of lubrication on the tracks but this train made the most horrendous sound in the world - like nails on a chalkboard that even a blood-curdling scream wouldn't pierce through. I wouldn't be surprised if half the population is stone-deaf as most of the regulars on the train didn't even bother shielding their ears whereas I had my hands over both ears and my head almost between my knees.

My night and morning at the hostel aren't really worth recounting, except to thank a sweet lass (Katrina?) who came running down a dark and rainy street to see if knew where I was going (I didn't) and help me find the hostel and who later helped me find a place to store my pack for free while I walked around Milan. Travelling can really bring out the best of people and a sort of international camaraderie that is something that has to be experienced to believe.

Now, onto the pictures from the next day, the 12th of August:


The Castello Sforzesco reveals that Milan is part of a different history than the rest of Italy. Unlike the Renaissance-esque buildings and Roman ruins that marked Verona and Florence, Milan seems to belong the the epoch of castles and keeps that is more commonly associated with France and England. In fact, the Northwestern portion of Italy routinely changed alliances or came under the dominion of different forces during the last millennium and developed strong ties with France.


The courtyard between the fortress gate and the castle. Bicycles were a medieval weapon thrown from the ramparts on invading troops. Only later was it discovered that they could also be used for transportation.


The gate to heaven. Actually just having fun with aperture and shutter speeds as I waited for a downpour to end...



Castle Sforzesco is now a museum that holds a lot of furniture... For this reason I decided to pass on becoming more acquainted with my first-ever medieval castle (this discounts the pleasure palaces I visited in Germany that served more of an aesthetic than defensive function, although Salzburg's fortress may count).



The unbelievable Duomo of Milan, the finest church I had ever set my sights upon in all its resplendent glory. Having passed the church the night before in the gloom and drizzle it barely stood out but now, amidst the light blue sky and streaming sunlight... magnifico!



The marble Duomo was commissioned in 1386 and was continually under construction for the 600 years that followed!


Inside the Duomo, a brief look around and some blurry pictures (no flash permitted!).


Between the two colossal pillars and the immense sense of space this picture looks like the throne room of that evil space alien the Scientologists believe in.



The floor tiling reminds me of a deck of cards. For those of you that have seen the beginning of Casino Royale, they could have saved some time by filming the tiling here...



The centre of Milan, the Piazza del Duomo with the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II encompassing one whole side. The open-air Galleria is full of the shops that make Milan famous such as Gucci and McDonald's... (actually not joking about the McDonald's, except here they are a cafe that serve a number of baked goods in a Starbucks style atmosphere... la de da!).


Jin relaxes in the shade (blame the photographer) in front of the Galleria. The Duomo is concealed to the right.


Not a bad job for an automatic-mode shot, except this time I'm in the shadow... sigh!


The Duomo, complete with requisite scaffolding. The Europeans must spend a fortune renovating these buildings.




Inside the Galleria, Prada and Louis Vuitton occupy some of the prime central ground. The far end leads to the famous Teatro alla Scala, the Milanese Opera House. To my right, kitty-corner to the Prada store is the McDonald's Cafe!


An old tradition. At the centre of the Galleria there's a circular rut worn into the tile. Legend has it that if you put your heel into the rut and spin around its some kind of good luck charm. I can't remember the exact significance. Maybe you'll come back to Milan or marry a Milanese or who knows what. The Europeans are a superstitious bunch...


Leonardo must have spent some time here too, since they erected a large statue of the single-name scholar/artist at the other end of the Galleria (near the opera house). The "Da Vinci" at the end of Leonardo's name refers to his place of birth. He was known at the time simply as Leonardo, as the name plate on this statue reveals.


Ascending the steps to the top of the Duomo. The Galleria is to the right and the Piazza in the foreground.



Atop each of the pillars is a saint, with hundreds of fully sculpted individual saints making up the whole edifice.




More card themes, the Spades point up!


It must get lonely up there. A close-up of the intricateness of the saintly spires.


God speaks!


The Piazza del Duomo from above.


The roof of the cathedral.


The city of Milan looking northwest. The castle/fortress Sforzesco can be seen in the distance.


An inspiring view, worthy of one more photo!

The Corso Vittorio Emanuele II shopping street extends from the Galleria alongside the Duomo and then off into the distance. The buildings of Milan stand in sharp contrast to what I'd seen in the rest of Italy.




Proof that I didn't rip these photos off a travel website. Needing a haircut and some sunglasses, Jason stands before Milan.

At this point it was mid-afternoon on the 12th and I felt I had seen what Milan had to offer. Jin had left me for home when I climbed the stairs to see the top of the Duomo and I had resolved earlier to take a train westward to continue my journey. Unfortunately, as I arrived at the train station there were no trains leaving for anywhere until the next morning. Thus, I was forced to stay another night in expensive modern and slightly boring Milan. Hoping to avoid spending another night at the HI youth hostel and desiring to cash in on Jin's forgetfulness the night before I phoned up my new Korean friend and told him of my misfortune and asked to spend the night. Luckily he agreed and invited me to come over.

As the story goes, however, I took my time, decided to check my email and post a few pictures on the blog (failed at that so I resorted to sending emails and chatting on gmail/meebo). By the time I phoned Jin again to let him know I was coming over he seemed anxious that I had delayed so long but we arranged to meet at a subway stop as soon as I had picked up my bag from the hostel.

It turns out Jin's anxiety stemmed from the fact that, in preparation of my arrival his girlfriend and her housemates had decided to make dinner for me and I was actually holding up the poor group's meal! Now part of my scheme of international diplomacy as a vegetarian is avoiding being put in situations where I have to decline meals and coming over late in the day was part of this strategy. In guaranteed, in my mind, that assumptions would have been made that I had eaten (whether or not I had) and vice versa. Unfortunately this would prove to be the elusive case.

Arriving at the apartment ten hungry eyes bade me a quick hello and ushered me into the kitchen where I was seated in front of a table of Korean and Western foods and my plate quickly filled with a chicken leg or two, some kimchi, some kind of sushi/kimbap(spelling?), and so on. I had starved this poor lot, most of whom couldn't speak English (Jin was the only trilingual - English, Italian, Korean). So my choice was to decline or eat some chicken and yet-to-be-identified meat...


Ten eyes bearing down upon me. To munch or not to munch... that is the question!


So that was some pretty tasty chicken. Yep, I decided to swallow my convictions, as well as the chicken and sushi-type stuff. An international crisis was avoided and I was rewarded with some fresh watermelon for dessert, a hot shower and a free place to sleep! Thank you again Jin & friends for a truly memorable experience in Milan. It made this otherwise slightly dull city a great story!


Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Florence, Italy - August 9 - 11, 2006

Dry, hot, beautiful inland Florence, or Firenze as the Italians refer to her - a much spicier version than the prefix Flor could ever convey. Whereas Venice I had to see because it will sink, Firenze was worth seeing all on its own merits. What Rome was in the days of the Empire, Firenze was in the days of the Renaissance - the world capital of culture, art and literature, which are today embodied in a number of extensive museums (extensive referring to the 3-hour line I waited to get in one of them!). Anyway, I will let the photos speak to you themselves, starting with some panoramic views of the valley from the campsite.







As you can see, the campsite "Camping Michelangelo" was perched on one of the rolling hills that surrounded the city - it was only a short 20 minute walk into the city which made the location ideal and the price was right.


The star of the hillside, a replica of Michelangelo's David, the real one was removed and is now in a museum, which is too bad. Outside of the Italian countryside I'm not sure if it can take on the same shine as the replica did.


A feudal tower, maybe from the Medici era, is left on the high bank of the Arno River. In the evening the base of this tower serves as an informal hangout with a mini-bar and snack stand, some tables and music. Yet another reason why Europe gets everything right.


The Ponte Vecchio - the famous Medici bridge that was financed by the powerful merchant family during the Italian Renaissance. This partly covered bridge contained a secret passageway used by the Medici family and its advisers to cross in secret between their palatial residence on the outskirts of the city (to the left of the Arno in this picture) and there fortress inside the city. Rumour has it that butcher shops originally set-up shop along the bridge to hock their wares to passerbys but the Medici's evicted them for degrading their coveted bridgeway and demanded that only prestigious enterprises could operate, thus Ponte Vecchio became famous for its gold trade which operated out of the shops built right onto the sides of the bridge.



A close-up of the Ponte Vecchio.


Sunset on the Arno as seen from the Ponte Vecchio.


The feudal citadel gives this city much more flavour than any Roman influences. This tall tower likely belongs to the Vecchio fortress, the central Medici stronghold.


The famous Battistero, one of the oldest buildings in Florence, was built on a Roman temple sometime during the first millennium. The Italian poet Dante was baptized here.


Looming behind the Battistero is the Duomo - the Italian version of the German Dom, the church of churches. The most spectacular church I had seen in Italy (until Milan - which takes the cake for best church ever).


A close-up of the intricate architecture and colours of the duomo, especially the terracotta-coloured dome which easily stands out against the green hills and sand coloured buildings that cover the Italian landscape.


The campanile, the large bell tower characteristic of Italian churches.




The entrance to the duomo (sans priest with cross and holy water trying to evict demonic youngsters).




The best Christians are the ones encased in stone is what I've always said. Here some saints of Firenze adorn the outer walls of the Duomo.


No point to this photo, I just like the "look up.... way up" sort of feel.


The crest of the Medici family - a common marker in Firenze as the Medici's ran this town like the Hell's Angels run Kelowna. And whereas the HA have the Grand Hotel, the Medici's had a number of palaces.


Breaking the bank - out for a romantic dinner for one in Firenze with a glass of Chianti and a plate of real Italian pasta with fresh Parmesan cheese. Just typing this gets my mouth watering again. I thought of trying to set-up the camera somewhere to have it auto-shoot a picture but it turns out it was less embarrassing to ask the waitress to do it.


The Duomo and the Piazza di San Giovanni at midnight - as active as it had been six hours earlier. European cities just don't know what time's bed-time. But I did, so I headed back to the campground.


The Arno and the Ponte Vecchio in the dark.





Firenze from the hillside on my hike back home.


Back in town. Looking from the city-side bank of the Arno toward the multi-coloured buildings that line the periphery of the city. Unbeknownst to me at this point, I would soon waste 3 hours on a sweltering summer day waiting to get into the Palazzo Degli Uffizi, one of the most famous Italian museums, known for its collection of Florentine and Renaissance paintings. It was also running a fabulous Leonardo di Vinci exhibit (di Vinci lived part of his life in Firenze before leaving for France). Unfortunately after waiting 3 hours in the heat to get into the museum I could barely last an hour inside the un-air conditioned palace before feeling faint and having to bolt for the exit.


The rectangular outer court of the Uffizi is lined with famous Italians. Galileo, known for inventing the indelible marker deserves a prominent position.


Amerigo Vespucci, a well-known cartographer discovered the origin of the evolution during a famous voyage to Peru.


Macchiavelli - a name synonymous with pasta sauce itself - was a prominent noodleer during his day and his memory lives on thanks to reheatable microwave dinners.


Wrote the Da Vinci Code - enough said.


Not so menacing without his staff, this turtle-cum-ninja is portrayed anthropomorphically, a process common to more primitive societies that need to characterize their heroes and gods in human form.


After escaping the Uffizi, and witnessing some of the most famous prints in history such as Botticelli's Birth of Venus (the one with Venus standing in an open shell), I stumbled around Florence and realized that the city itself was a museum of various artifacts, statues and monuments. I'm not sure how the Greek warrior Perseus and the severed head of Medusa fit into the storyline of a modern Italian city but here they are.


King Triton - by the looks of it at least - and what looks like a yard sale of other statues are scattered the square.


Italians take their gelato seriously, just take a look at the neon-intensity of Festival of Gelato. Indeed!


Mmmm... the Italian breakfast heard around the world - due to me bragging about how good it was. It was even worth a picture. A cappuccino and a croissant at 8am as I waited for the Santa Croce church to open across the street. The coffee was so good it barely needed any sugar, the flavour was in the beans. Since Europe, the doors to coffee and wine and stinky cheese have been opened to me. Viva la revolucion!


Another momento of my extraordinarily simple but excellent breakfast. The Iris Coffee shop, complete with the requisite lineup of vespa motor scooters.

Inside Santa Croce, a museum in its own right of the notable dead. Talk about people dying to get in here, Machiavelli had to struggle to maintain his family name with the Medici's in order to get this stately monument.


Michelangelo's burial tomb. Prestigious it is.


Marconi (Macaroni the Radio Guy), Da Vinci, Donatello, the who's who of Firenze and Italy are in this church. The lesser known types get the floor.


A basilica attached to Santa Croce illuminated only by daylight and its own architecture.


Alas, its time to say goodbye to Florence and Firenze. As I wait for the bus to come by to take me to the train station I take one last look at the town from above.


Some more Italian hotrods parked outside the train station. If anyone wants to know where they got their Italian postcards from it was here, waiting for the train to Milan - I had decided to take my Korean friends Jin and Jay up on their offer to drop my Jin's hometown to get one more day in Italy before it was off to France. For Mom: the last piece of your Botticelli puzzle could be on the floor of the store where I was writing the postcards. I dropped the puzzle on the floor but thought I had picked up all the pieces.


Italian trains aren't always on time like the German's. It seems even Mussolini couldn't pull that off, but I never had a problem. Using my Euro-rail pass I could jump on any train whenever I wanted (in theory - although the practice turned out to annoyingly more difficult). But I should end on a happy note, so .... think happy thoughts!