Saturday, September 30, 2006

Freiburg, Germany - August 2, 2006

Welcoming to the charming city of Freiburg - located in the furthest Southwestern corner of Germany, bordering on France and Switzerland. The first day I arrived, following a four-or-five hour train ride across southern Germany, was rainy and cold - a perfect day to do nothing after the previous 5 of continuous exploration and beer-guzzling. Ivo was happy to accomodate, thankfully, and allowed me to take up space on his back porch watching the rain fall and his girlfriend's rabbit hop around the yard. After some vegetarian soup and apple struddel - my first in Germany - we shot some pool with friends before calling it an early night. The next day we went to Zurich and Basel, so I didn't actually get to explore Freiburg itself until my 3rd and final day in the city! Despite the short amount of time, I couldn't help but love it, the perfect size, character and demographic - read on!


Ivo's home town is a "university city" - a common phenomenon in Europe wherein a city's primary focus is the university and is populated through-and-through by students. Sounds like a great place to live! When we were there it was a bit quiet - being mid-summer and the majority of students off doing whatever students do in the summer.



The University of Freiburg is smack dab in the middle of the city - not removed on some enclosed "campus" like most Canadian universties. Martin Heidegger was one of the more prominent philosohpers to have made Freiburg his home, and the famous phenomenoligist Edmund Husserl also taught here. Its quite interesting to think of such a "small" place to be home to such luminaries and to have played such a large role in the philosophical community while remaining outside of the major centres of Paris or Berlin - or even Frankfurt where the famous school of Benjamin, Adorno and Horkheimer started, only a few hours north of Freiburg.


The classic Germanic tower-gates that dominate the cityscapes of southern Germany. They're always so photogenic, its hard to resist.


A streetcar makes its way along the main drag of Freiburg with the Black Forest (the same forest of Hansel & Grettal fame, as well as the dessert) in the background. Freiburg was probably the cutest city I visited in Germany.


Even the manhole covers are photogenic. This one bears the city crest.



Another street deadending against the forest which surrounds the city on three-sides.


Anyone going to Landwasser?


This may seem like just another picture of a church - and it is - but one of these gargoyles is in a somewhat unnatural position - mooning the bishop's house across the street. Supposedly, if I recall the story Ivo recounted to me, the builders were unhappy with whatever arrangement they had with the bishop (financially or otherwise) and so decided to make this subtle addition to the church.


Like the great towers, the beautiful gothic architecture is hard to pass up. Here you can see the buttresses which hold up the walls of the church's vaulted ceiling - an effect that gives a feeling of incredible space and height in the inside of the church.


The town hall's bay window (seen differently below).



A german town hall across from the church. The colour schemes of Freiburg seem similar to that of Basel with their emphasis on reds, blues, and gold. This wasn't common outside of this small corner of the world.


The public market on the grounds outside the church. The bishop's house (referenced above) is/was the yellowish / peach coloured one I think.


Hmmm.... fresh berries for sale.


Mmmm cakes. I agree with their sentiments of eating many cakes - that is true.


A Freiburg oddity is that almost all the streets come with a "ditch" or "trench" of some kind that carries water somewhere or other. I don't think these simply function as storm drains because they were always full. They could be a remnant of medieval practice of having sewer drainage in the streets. Nowadays there is a legend that if you step into the water in any of these "streams" it will be your destiny to marry a resident of Freiburg. I was sure to check out the relative quality of the residents before deciding to avoid the water :).




Even the street signs beg to be photographed.


Weird dude on horse mimicked by odd dude on bicycle. To be honest I'm not sure why I photographed this - but the symmetry seems interesting now in retrospect.


Not a photograph of something in particular but I like how it shows regular objects in their beauty of daily-ness.


The Engert siblings - Ivo and sister Sylvia digest lunch on the university grounds. Sylvia and I had falafel, I don't think she was a fan :( Mine was great though, even better since Sylvia bought it for me! How's that for sweetness? Ivo and his family really went all out for me in the few days I spent with him in Freiburg and Switzerland, lending us their car, inviting me for breakfast and buying me lunch. Putting aside their attempt to off me by watermelon, I want to again express my gratitude. Having friends welcome you into their homes when you travel really makes the difference and Freiburg will always have a special place in my heart!



Inside the church mentioned above. A perfect day for illuminating stained glass windows.


The sense of space and height effect of Gothic architecture - thanks to the flying buttresses on the outside. This church - according to Ivo - housed an Archbishop at one time or another, denoting the importance of Freiburg historically.


Candles burn a finite prayer in our absence. Seems like a good deal to me. For a few coins you can buy someone/something to pray for you. Just need to invent a candle that can last for a few weeks/years instead of hours.



One of the things I loved in Europe was the great doors. Even regular houses seem to have some great doormanship. I have no idea where this door leads or of what building its a part of but it was photo-worthy.


A quaint little shopping district.


A well-manicured street "lantern".


Another cool door.


This "lantern" is having a bad hair day. Maybe its just feeling freaked out.


The rooftops of Freiburg. Already it was time to leave - in retrospect I wish I could have stayed longer, although poor Ivo probably enjoyed having his bed back! Nevertheless, as much I wanted to explore more and visit the cities of western Germany such as Frankfurt, Prague beckoned. But that's a story for another time - specifically when I get off my lazy @$$ and write it for you!


3 comments:

Joanna said...

Now that was an interesting blog. I think it was the first time I was inspired to read more about one of the cities you visited.

A quick visit to WIKI told me that "the Greens have a stronghold here (the strongest in any major German city; up to 25% of the votes city-wide, in some neighbourhoods they reached 40% or more".

In the new Germany that probably makes it the base for all things progressive. So the city is beautiful and tilted the right way politically, sounds good to me.

By the way, who uses grass lanterns? That seems about as smart as Grass fire pits, or grass stoves.

Cheers

Shayne

Anonymous said...

My brother is going to be going to school their and I was happy to read what you said because of course I'm going to have to go visit him!

Yara Caroline Alflen said...

Nice Photographs on Freiburg beauties!!!
The city seems lovely, and it's one of the most sustainable citys in the world!! just great!!
but i've noticed there are no bikes in your photos...and they're so popular around there, right?

greets from Brazil