After a poor night's sleep with my worldly and expensive possessions wrapped under my arms (I was in a converted classroom with 20 other people), I awoke for another day of exploring the great city of Prague. Understanding the layout a bit better and the transportation system, I was able to plan a route to take me to most of the city's landmarks in a single day.
In the centre of traffic - the electric street car is what I used to get too and from the hostel. Today, my second and only full day (since I arrived yesterday, albeit in the early morning) in Prague. I exit the streetcar behind one of the mighty towers of which 1/3 is visible in the middle of the island. From here I can walk to Vaclavske nam (Wenceslas Square) to complete my trek to its far end.
The end of Vaclavske nam (Wenceslas Square) where King Wenceslas himself sits astride his mighty steed (this is one of the largest equestrian statues in the world I believe). This monument to everyone's favourite Christmas carol figure stands in front of the national museum and looks down upon the large rectangular square that is more reminiscent of the modern layout of Paris than a medieval city.
More spires, I didn't count to see if there were a thousand or not.
Frank Gehry's world-famous "Dancing House" is supposed to resemble two dancers. Its original name was "Fred and Ginger" after Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. I suppose this adds the postmodern to the list of architectures that Prague is already famous for. These photos are dedicated to Rosa, former VP Academic of OUCSAK.
On the waterfront. Prague is a city that spans both sides of the river Vltava and has almost as many bridges as spires, as one can tell from this picture, these two bridges aren't far apart. This looks to the west bank which is the "newer" half of Prague, but still over a millenia old.
Riverfront housing. The cobble-stone boardwalk actually allows me to take enough steps back to get part of a city block of Prague in focus. Each house a slightly different colour but the roofs dotted with the same collection of satellite dishes!
The Vltava River divides momentarily to encompass and island-park.
Another building with intricate details but no story - that I know of. Two musicians adorn the balcony of this house - perhaps centuries ago it housed a composer of some consequence. Now just another of a thousand stories of Prague.
I can't remember if the focus of this picture is the insane mesh of streetcar cables crisscrossing this intersection or the old building with its magnificent roof decorations - including what looks like a chariot bolting full-tilt over the edge.
The colour and tone of this work makes the central figure resemble a Ring Wraith from Lord of the Rings. Perhaps another monument to Good King Wenceslas.
King Charles' bridge, one of the oldest bridges remaining in Europe and a feat of medieval architecture in its span. This was the primary entrance from the west bank into the old city of Prague and thus was equipped with guard towers on either end to prevent invading armies from crossing. As Prague grew and expanded onto both banks, the royals built Prague Castle on the western hill overlooking the Vltana and the old city.
The near-still water of the Vltana casts a good reflection of the pink clock tower and its neighbouring buildings.
The almost eye-searing orangeness of it all begged to be photographed.
Looking up from Charles Bridge through the guard towers on either side of its western entrance. I can just imagine soldiers standing on the crossbridge between the tours dumping pitch and shooting arrows at invading foreigners - much as Steven Harper would like to do.
My view from that same tower crossbridge looking West. St. Nicholas church on the left and the famous church from Prague castle looms on the right hand side while screaming tourists run for cover from my terrible wrath below (sadly off screen).
Yours truly - the pathetic and lonely traveller who quickly sets his camera to automatic in order to have a picture of himself in Prague. I wasn't too happy with this photo but people came up the tower after me and I didn't want to get caught taking pictures of myself.
The possible victims of wrath. Tourists stroll through the guard tower of Charles Bridge.
An ancient sword. This reminded me of the sword in the stone and since swords are fundamentally and in their very essence cool I was forced by the categorical imperative that I cognize a priori to photograph it.
Looking East. The throngs brave the weather to cross Charles Bridge (right) while the historic centre of Prague is visible by the twin-spired Tyn Church and town hall. In the distance the modern phallo-tower adds another thrust to the Czech skyline.
No real reason to include this photo but I love rooftops and someone won't be able to complain about this post if I don't give them some rooftops to complain about.
One of my many attempts to contrast new and old, global and local, commercial and theological (both nihilistic values?) in Europe. Most of them failed or are vague, this came the closest so I'll include it here and then sit back triumphantly as if I've made some artist point that wasn't already obvious to everyone and could have been done better by a ten-year-old.
This looks almost like one of those eye puzzles. This was part of the luxurious neighbourhood that still surrounds the castle area.
The entrance of Prague Castle with close up of enormous violent statues. The guards (first photo) behave much like the British Royal Guards and don't move, smile, etc. They just stand outside their little boxes until their shift is over. Unfortunately I have no idea if any business - governmental or royal - still goes on in the castle. Tourists were allowed easy entrance to the courtyards and such, so if so they're quite lax on security. Perhaps they figure the enormous brutes guarding the entrance above the guards is enough to immediate would-be malcontents from any impropriety.
In contention with Tyn (and maybe St. Nicholas) for the most famous church in Prague is St. Vitus Cathedral which stands within the grounds of Prague Castle. Noted for both its twin spires (a la Tyn) and still greater clock/bell tower in the centre - not to mention surrounded by the mini-spires of its gothic buttresses - this church really tries to out-do the rest. There is too much of a good thing, however, and for me it didn't really stand out in comparison to the copper-roofed St. Nic or the unique facade of Tyn. Still - quite nice. I especially liked the gargoyles - now that's architecture.
Toning down the spiralic testosterone is the Basilica of St. George, one of the oldest churches in Prague - predating St. Vitus, Tyn & Nicholas. Built in the Romanesque style of the 10th century it is one of the finest examples of its kind still remaining. As one can see from the photo it doesn't look a day over 200.
The single tree standing in the courtyard of the palace on the hill. Probably because my creativity has been wiped out by movies this draws comparison in my mind to the 3rd Lord of the Rings movie. Thus far two LOTR comparisons in one post. No good...
A tattered Czech flag symbolizing the occupation of their homeland starting with the Sudetenland in 1938 and ending with Soviet "liberation" in 1945 which saw the modern, progressive and westernized Czech pulled eastward behind the iron curtain. One of the most interesting pieces of memorial art/sculpture that I've seen. Most military monuments in Canada and western Europe seem so greco-roman in their sepulchral majesty. This seems more tragic.
I found what I wasn't looking for. How could I have been in the city of Kafka for two days and not have even remembered that I was walking along the same streets as the artist himself. So it was by complete accident and surprise, and of course delight, that I stumbled into this part of town - the old Jewish sector where a number of synagogues and the remnants of the old ghetto remain.
No need to speculate about the automatic mode this time. A fellow tourist volunteered to snap the photo of Franz and I.
Well, that's about it for Prague. I had strolled around the poor city for hours and it was time to head home. But wait, its almost 7 o'clock on the dot!
Well, that's about it for Prague. I had strolled around the poor city for hours and it was time to head home. But wait, its almost 7 o'clock on the dot!
I made it back in time to see see the town hall astronomical clock in action. As you can see, the windows have opened and little religious dudes are paraded out for a quick wave at the crowds below. Not exactly fascinating but this is what counts for showbiz in Prague a thousand-years ago. Fine by me.
Last view of Prague.
2 comments:
well, your last one was good for people pictures. this one's good for building and statue pictures.
some favorites:
-- m.c. escher wannabe - the one you labeled a brain teaser
-- the violent statues - cause damn, those medieval mother fuckers really knew how to lay the smack down
-- the sword - you know i can't resist a phallic symbol
-- the churches - they knew how to lay the smack down too, and the architects made those spires their bitches.
One of the great things about Prague are its streets. Yes, the cobblestone is great even if it can ruin a perfectly great pair of heals. But, what I love about them is the treasures you can find just by taking an unplanned turn, really looking into the windows, and making your experience unique. We booked a room in Prague hotel right in the center of the Old Town - wanting to be close to everything.Prague was my first stop in a trip through Europe and was definitely the highlight.
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